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Saint Patrick's Purgatory, Lough Derg


Old Lough Derg Photo

A Pilgrim's Progress

Lough Derg Co Donegal is an ancient place of Pilgrimage. It is a lake near the village of Pettigo and on it is an island containing a Basilica and accommodation. The traditional pilgrimage involves going to the island for about 2 days for prayers, you are also expected to abstain from food from mid-night prior to arrival until the mid-night after leaving, 3 days in all. However black tea and toast are allowed on the island.
I arrived this year in early July (The season runs from June to 15th August), it rained during my journey there until I got on the boat which takes only a few minutes to ferry you across. You must be on the island by 3 pm whichever day you arrive. On arrival you immediately go to a dormitory where you remove your shoes and socks for the remainder of the pilgrimage. About 62 people of all ages arrived that day to join 160 pilgrims already into their second day. At weekends pilgrims can number over 300.
You must start your pilgrimage by making your 3 stations. These involve prayer whilst walking around the penitential beds. These consist of little stone shrines to Irish Saints. The stones can be sore on the bare feet and if raining can be slippery. There are 5 penitential beds and the 3 stations must be made by 9.20 pm. You then stay up all night to make 4 more stations within the Basilica. Next morning all pilgrims come together for mass at 6 am.
Although it was early July it was a bitterly cold night, many pilgrims had wisely brought overcoats, thankfully the famous midges insects did not appear. Keeping awake is the biggest problem, it is at this point you admire the resilience of people especially the elderly and those who may not be light footed.
The second day involves acts of reconciliation, renewal of baptismal vows, the stations of the cross, the day finishing with benediction and bed!
Next day at 6 am we all attend Mass again and then make our final station. We return to our dormitories to put on our shoes, get our belongings and then board the boats with much relief for the mainland.
Everybody comes here for different reasons, getting away from it all, to renew your faith, to make atonement for sins etc. Whatever the reason there is a sense of achievement in surviving the rigorous stations, the lack of sleep, the weather and the midges. I for one come away appreciating the joys of food but perhaps guilty about world starvation even though you must only wait until midnight to indulge.

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